Smoke, Spice, and Southern Soul: Unpacking Melbourne’s Barbecue Gem
Let’s talk about the brisket. It’s not just a standout dish; it’s a testament to the incredible dedication poured into what might seem like a straightforward culinary pursuit: barbecue. This isn’t just any beef brisket; it’s a masterclass in the art of low-and-slow American-style barbecue, a craft where success is judged by a trifecta of perfection. We’re talking about a cut that’s unbelievably tender and moist throughout, a consistent, caramelised “bark” of spice that forms during the cooking process, and a profound beefy flavour underscored by subtle smoke notes that enhance, rather than overpower, the natural taste of the meat. On every single one of these crucial benchmarks, Lance Rosen’s brisket doesn’t just meet expectations; it soars above them.
This particular brisket undergoes an 18-hour smoking process over pecan wood. The result? Meat so brimming with its own juices that the cut surface glistens as if shedding tears of pure, salty joy. Each bite is an experience in succulence, a sensation that seems to expand and bloom in your mouth as you chew, ultimately resolving into an unforgettable explosion of beefy brilliance. While I’m more than happy to wax lyrical about its virtues, the true endorsement comes from the loyal patrons, particularly those from Texas, who return time and time again. You might even spot one now, leaning back in a high-backed booth, a contented drawl on their lips and a look of pure bliss on their face.
Southern Grace Diner: A Sunday Revelation
Southern Grace Diner, a pop-up phenomenon that graces us only on Sundays, operates out of the Big Boy BBQ premises. Big Boy BBQ itself is a Friday-only affair, dedicated to serving up incredible brisket burgers. The driving force behind this culinary haven is owner and chef Lance Rosen. Originally from South Africa and possessing a background in fine dining, Rosen’s passion for barbecue was ignited during a trip to the United States in 2007.
By 2011, his dedication had manifested in the opening of Big Boy BBQ, quickly establishing him as a trailblazer in Melbourne’s smoked-meat scene. The business grew significantly, expanding to three locations and employing 60 staff. However, Rosen eventually scaled back, returning to his roots with this more intimate, twice-a-week operation, essentially a one-man band. This hands-on approach is perfectly suited to the obsessive nature of true barbecue craftsmanship, a realm where Rosen clearly excels.
Beyond the Brisket: A Symphony of Flavours
While the brisket is undoubtedly the star of the show, it’s by no means the only act. Each week brings a fresh rotation of different meats and accompanying sides, encouraging diners to assemble a crew and sample as much as possible.
Honey-Rubbed Fried Chicken: Prepare for a flavour and texture sensation. This chicken is so exquisitely crisp that you’ll likely hear your dining companions crunching into their own pieces, a symphony of delightful crackles.
Lamb Ribs: These ribs are a testament to the power of slow smoking. They are melt-in-your-mouth tender and imbued with a deep, smoky flavour that makes finger-licking an absolute necessity.
* Cornbread: Forget dry, crumbly versions. This cornbread is a golden, sticky delight, finished with a luscious brown sugar glaze.
Chilli Con Carne: Rosen’s take on this classic is authentically Texan, meaning you won’t find any beans here. It’s a rich, meaty flavour bomb.
Mississippi Pickles: A quirky and delightful surprise, these pickles are marinated in Kool-Aid. This unconventional technique lends the cucumber a vibrant purple hue and a subtle, intriguing grape-like flavour.
Coleslaw: Far from being a bland accompaniment, this coleslaw is wonderfully vinegary, providing a crucial counterpoint that cuts through the richness of the barbecued meats, cleansing the palate with every bite.
Sweet Endings and Authenticity’s Embrace
The dessert offerings continue the Southern theme, with delights such as classic peach cobbler or a decadent red velvet cake often gracing the menu.
The question of authenticity is a frequent topic in the world of barbecue, a cuisine that can be fiercely debated. Barbecue is a dynamic culinary tapestry, woven from Indigenous American, African American, and white European culinary traditions, constantly evolving and adapting across different regions. Naturally, when this tradition travels to Australian shores, it undergoes yet another fascinating transformation.
Rosen embraces this evolution, infusing his dishes with his own food memories. For instance, elements of his brisket rub were honed during his time as a chef in a high-end hotel. Similarly, his fermented coleslaw can be traced back to a Jewish restaurant that operated in St Kilda during the post-war era.
These personal touches and historical connections provide a beautiful narrative for this feel-good comfort food. It’s served with genuine warmth by the man who has dedicated his week to its creation and who is more than happy to share his passion and culinary journey with you.
